Every year in Australia bush fires destroy homes and cause the death of pets and livestock. Being prepared is key in limiting the harm that can come to your household in the event of a serious fire event.

Identification
For any pets that have outdoor access, having current identification and contact details can be the difference in whether they are re-united after a fire goes through. Cats and dogs should have their microchips registered through the NSW Pet Registry and details can be updated online. Any other species with microchips or other RFID you will need to check with the organisation responsibility for maintaining their records. If you have animals that do not have permanently implanted identification such as poultry, consider other means if identification whether it’s leg rings, photos for identification, etc.

Just like you would for kids going to daycare, if you are planning on boarding or taking pets with you to evacuation centres, etc then it’s worth labelling all their belongings too so things don’t get mixed up with others.

Pet Go-Box
As above – if you are planning to evacuate or move animals in the event of a fire, it’s worth preparing or at least having a check-list for your pets Go-Boxes. This should include enough food for at least 3 days (more if they have specific dietary requirements), water and bowls, as well as any medications/scripts. You’ll need leads & harnesses for dogs, and enough cat carriers for all the feline members of the household to have their own space. For the littler critters consider travel cages/carriers. In preparation it’s worth getting them out of storage with enough time in advance to give them a good clean. If they are potentially going to be stuck in carriers for a few days, you don’t want to start off with it already dirty. You’ll need to manage toilet breaks too, so pack the poo-bags, puppy pads, litter and trays. Anxious pets also benefit from having comfort items packed, plus beds that smell of home.  To streamline the process, if you intend to use boarding services, pop your vaccination certificates or books out handy too.

Transport vs shelter in place
As much as we love our pets and want to be able to take them with us in an emergency, it is not always a practical option. Aquariums are a challenge to move at the best of time and terrarium pets with specialist set-ups may risk ill-health with a move to evacuation centres. Similarly larger flocks or chickens or herds of horses and livestock are not easily moved and may need to be moved large distances in order to find available safe spaces for this. This means families need to have clear guidelines for themselves as to whether they intend to evacuation those animals and allow plenty of time for relocation to a safe area or instead plan as best they can for those animals to remain. This may mean cutting fences/opening gates so they can run from the fires and try and find their own shelter

Around the home
Especially if your plan is for animals to shelter in place, home preparation is essential. Just like you would for your house, you need to remove loose dry leaves and branches away from the structures your pets use for shelter e.g. chicken cooks, aviaries or stables. Dampen down the structures before you evacuate and fill any spare (preferably metal) containers, troughs and buckets with water before leaving. As our native wildlife only have the option to shelter in place, leaving water out, also helps them, but placing a stick into the water reservoirs can help prevent drowning, if a smaller critter slips into the water.

First aid
We often get questions about the best items to have in a first aid kit but our honest response is that the best first aid is to NOT be anywhere near a fire in the first place. Beyond that, large volumes of clean cool water is the best first aid item you can pack. It can be helpful for cleaning smoke-irritated eyes, soothing parched dry throats, gently cleaning debris from wounds and burns and helping to manage dehydration. Human grade burn dressings would be appropriate for use, but application of large volumes of cool water are still the recommended first aid for burns on us humans too!
For more information on how to have your home bush-fire prepared, talk to your local RFS branch.

As of 8/9/26 there are no recorded incidences of H5 Bird Flu in pet birds or poultry in Australia. The situation is fluid and any backyard chooks showing signs (https://www.nsw.gov.au/regional-and-primary-industries/biosecurity/bird-flu)  should prompt a call to the disease hotline ( Emergency Animal Disease Hotline 1800 675 888 ).
 
But if your sneezing chicken doesn’t have Avian Influenza, what else could it be?
 
Five common underlying causes of respiratory symptoms such as wheezing, sneezing, weepy eyes and head swellings, in backyard chickens in NSW are:
 
1. Fowl cholera. Caused by Pasteurella bacteria.
2. ILTV/Infectious Laryngotracheitis Virus. Caused by a herpesvirus.
3. IB/Infectious bronchitis. Caused by a coronavirus. (not THAT coronavirus!)
4. Infectious coryza. Caused by Avibacterium.
5. Mycoplasma. A small, bacteria-like pathogen that weakens the host and makes them susceptible to other respiratory infections including psittacosis, aspergillosis, E.coli and Salmonella infections.

Where do these diseases come from?
Chickens, turkeys, and ducks who have had a fowl cholera infection in the past, and remain silent carriers, or who have been recently infected but have shown no symptoms, can be the biggest spreaders. Your older hens may look fine, but when you introduce new pullets, the young birds get sick.

Alternately, young birds with no symptoms can spread fowl cholera to the older members of your flock. The “all-in, all-out” system, where your flock consists of similar-aged chickens, and you don’t add any unless you lose all of your existing birds, can simplify your quarantine measures. We recommend you don’t mix chickens with turkeys or waterfowl for the same reasons.

Wild birds can also be a source of fowl cholera, contaminating the environment with mouth, nose, and eye secretions. Pasteurella can survive in the environment on shoes, clothes, and feed bags. ILT is not in wild birds but can be spread from other poultry in feathers and dust, on vehicles and equipment. IBV, in chickens only, spreads in droppings and in secretions from the mouth and nostrils by contact or in contaminated water or food. Older chickens are more susceptible to coryza, spread by direct or indirect contact, usually from carrier chickens.

How are they diagnosed?
Pasteurella, Mycoplasma and ILT can be diagnosed by sending laryngeal swabs to the NSW DPI for PCR testing. Unfortunately IBV is more often diagnosed on post-mortem by sending away tissue samples from birds that have died. PCR testing for coryza is from an infraorbital sinus sample, but the availability of this test varies. Bacterial culture of gram-negative Avibacteria from a lab sample may be possible, and this cause is one of the most likely to respond to antibiotics.

​But don’t forget that your substrate (whatever material is on the floor of your coop), allergens, vitamin A deficiency (not enough fruit and veg!), bushfire smoke, and heat stress can also cause respiratory signs. It’s not easy being a chook! But their quirky personalities are a delight to behold. May your chooks not dig up too many of your flowers this spring.

A gastropexy is a surgical procedure in which the stomach is permanently attached to the abdominal wall. It is recommended in large, deep-chested breeds, to prevent the stomach from twisting on its own axis- a fatal condition called Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus (GDV). It also commonly known as bloat.
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Reasons to consider a gastropexy:

• Prevents the fatal twisting of the stomach(volvulus)- It does not stop a simple bloat (stomach filling with gas) but is prevents the stomach from rotating on its own axis. Rotation cuts off the blood supply to the stomach and the bloating stomach causes problems with blood supply to the heart which leads to severe shock. It is fatal in up to 80% of cases.
• Cost-effective prevention- Emergency surgery in a GDV case and the emergency care that they require during surgery and afterward ranges into thousands of dollars. A preventative gastropexy significantly lowers veterinary costs, by removing the need for emergency surgery.
• Convenient timing during routine desexing- The procedure can be performed electively at the same time as your dogs spay or neutering. Combining the procedures spares your dog from having a second general anaesthesia and reduces the total recovery time.
• Minimally invasive options are available- there are specialists and veterinary practices performing a laparoscopic (keyhole) procedure. This allows for smaller incisions; far less post-operative pain and a significantly faster recovery time compared to open abdominal surgery.
• Peace of mind for high-risk breeds- It offers permanent, lifetime protection, reducing the risk of GDV by 95%. It is strongly recommended if you own a deep-chested, high-risk breed like a Great Dane, German Shepherd, Saint Bernard, Doberman, Labrador, or if a direct relative of your dog has suffered a GDV.

Schedule an appointment to discuss this with one of our vets if you are interested or if you want more information.

​ Are you feeling overwhelmed by all the different parasite prevention options available for your pet? Wondering which products to choose, what they protect against, and whether your pet is fully covered?
We’re here to help.
At our clinic, our priority is making sure your pets receive the correct protection, whether they’re big or small, indoor or outdoor, young or old. Parasite prevention is important all year round to help keep your pets healthy and protected.
Tick prevention is especially important in the Blue Mountains, as paralysis ticks can be extremely dangerous and even life threatening to pets. Many owners are surprised to learn that ticks can still affect indoor pets, as ticks can be brought inside on clothing, shoes, or other pets, or wildlife.
It is important to understand that not all preventative products cover everything. Some products may protect against fleas and ticks but not intestinal worms, while others may require an additional worming tablet for complete protection.
For example:

• Some tick preventatives require a separate intestinal wormer.
• Some products cover fleas and worms but not paralysis ticks.
• Some all-in-one products cover fleas, ticks, heartworm, and intestinal worms together.

Additional Parasite Protections: Some preventatives do not provide complete coverage against all intestinal worms and tapeworms.
To ensure complete protection, it is important to also include additional wormer treatments such as Fenpral, Milpro, and Droncit/allwormer. Please note though that Milpro only covers for heartworm if administered monthly.

​To help ensure your pet receives complete parasite protection, please don’t hesitate to speak to our veterinary team to determine the most suitable prevention plan for your pet, as well as any questions or concerns you may have.

While there can be some debate as to what age to desex your dog or whether you should do it all, with cats the jury is clear – unless you are involved with breeding purebreds, all cats should be neutered and before they get a chance to reproduce.
At certain times of year all the pounds, rescues and shelters are crammed full of kittens born to semi-owned or feral cats so the responsible thing is to try and not add to them. What are semi-owned cats? It’s that cat you see in your neighbourhood on a regular basis that you put out food for. Too often these individuals are supported by a few household but no-one takes responsibility for the cat and before too long numbers can escalate.

So when should you do it?
The ISFM (International society for feline medicine) recommends desexing at 4 months of age, because a proportion of cats will enter sexual maturity from them. Conveniently we can match this up with the timing of their final kitten vaccination. While there are some exceptions to this recommendation, your vet can advise you of this when you bring your kitten in for their early health checks.

What are the pros and cons of desexing my cat?
While there is a small risk from the general anaesthetic and surgery, this is outweighed in the most part by the benefits. Beyond preventing pregnancy, it reduces the chances of the cat picking up infectious disease, especially those that can be transmitted by sexual contact such as feline AIDS. For the boys, there is a massive reduction in the chances of them spraying urine around the house and without castration their urine will develop a noticeable strong odour, even if confined to a litter tray. They are less likely to get involved in fights with other male cats and roam far distances. For the girls it can also reduce the risk of breast cancers in female cats if done before 6 months of age. Plus, if you’ve ever had the chance to see a female cat in heat, you won’t forget their loud and distinctive call that can keep you up at night, while they are yowling and throwing themselves at the window trying to attract a boyfriend!

What does desexing involve?
For both sexes, neutering involves a day surgery. They are dropped off with an empty tummy in the morning. The boys have a simple incision over each testes and the are removed, using their own vessels to tie in a knot to stop the bleeding. Recovery is usually quick and uneventful. For the girls there’s a bit more involved as they require abdominal surgery to remove their ovaries and uterus. They will have several layers of stitches that take a while to dissolve and require the challenge of keeping a kitten quiet for a week with limited running, jumping and zoomies!

Dogs

C3: A C3 vaccine is the minimum level of coverage and is often what is given by breeders to puppies before they go to their new home.  For adults we use a triennial (lasting 3 year) vaccination. A C3 vaccine gives coverage against:

• Canine Distemper Virus: A difficult to treat and often fatal disease which is becoming more prevalent in Australia, particularly in southern states. Distemper is most commonly spread through droplets from the nose or mouth of infected dogs.  Symptoms may include nasal discharge, fever, coughing, vomiting, diarrhoea, convulsions/seizures, jaw-chewing movements and paralysis in its later stages.
• Canine Parvovirus: This virus primarily attacks the gastrointestinal tract of dogs, with the most recognisable symptoms being bloody diarrhoea and vomiting. It is often fatal due to the rapid destruction it causes. Parvovirus is extremely contagious and can survive in the environment for up to 9 years following contamination with infected faecal material.
• Canine Infectious Hepatitis: This virus is shed in all secretions of infected dogs including urine, saliva and faeces. Symptoms may include nasal discharge, seizures, swelling or spontaneous bleeding. Canine hepatitis has the most significant impact on the liver and kidneys and can cause life-long damage or be fatal in some cases.

C5: A C5 vaccine offers more comprehensive coverage that a C3 and is recommended for most dogs. A C5 gives coverage against:

• Canine Distemper Virus
• Canine Parvovirus
• Canine Infectious Hepatitis
• Canine Parainfluenza & Bordetella bronchiseptia: Parainfluenza the viral component of canine kennel cough, while Bordetella bronchiseptia is the bacterial component. Symptoms can range from a mild, hacking cough through to fatal pneumonia in more severe cases. Canine cough is transmitted through airborne particles, and dogs may be exposed in any setting where there is a congregation of dogs including boarding facilities, off-leash parks, cafes or groomers. This vaccine needs to given yearly and is recommended for dogs who socialise.

C7: A C7 vaccine offers the highest level of coverage against the most common infectious diseases dogs may be exposed to. It may be recommended depending on your lifestyle or geographic location. A C7 gives coverage against:

• Canine Distemper Virus
• Canine Parvovirus
• Canine Infectious Hepatitis
• Canine Parainfluenza & Bordetella bronchiseptia
• Leptospirosis: There are a number of strains of Leptospira bacteria present in soil and water which can cause Leptospirosis in mammals, including dogs and humans. Symptoms vary, but the disease most commonly effects the liver and kidneys and is often fatal. Risk factors include exposure to rodents, travel to at-risk regions (such as the inner west of Sydney, the NSW South Coast and tropical northern Australia) and exposure to still water. The vaccine we use in clinic covers two strains of leptospira and has to be given yearly.

Cats
F3: A F3 vaccine is recommended for cats as it offers coverage against diseases which are most contagious and likely to causes serious health problems for pets.  It is a requirement for boarding and recommended for any cat that may have contact with others. It needs to be administered yearly  and gives coverage against:

• Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis: This highly contagious virus causes upper respiratory tract infections (cat flu). Symptoms include sneezing, eye and nasal discharge, a fever and coughing. Effective treatment is limited, and once a cat has become infected, it is a carrier for life.
• Feline Calicivirus: Another viral cause of upper respiratory tract infections (cat flu). Symptoms include fever, ulcers and blisters on the tongue and pneumonia in more severe cases.  Cats infected with calicivirus can suffer from chronic illness and infect other cats even after recovery.
• Feline Panleukopaenia: This virus causes gastrointestinal disease in cats, with symptoms including vomiting, diarrhoea, dehydration and fevers. It is extremely infectious and resistant and can last in contaminated environments for over 1 year.

 
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV): In some cases, particularly for outdoor cats, a vaccination against FIV may be recommended. FIV is transmitted through bite wounds and scratches from infected cats. The virus attacks the immune system, leading to compromised immunity for life in infected individuals. This needs to be administered yearly.

​Rabbits
Filavac: In Australia, biological agents such as strains of calicivirus are used for the control of wild rabbit populations. Pet rabbits should therefore be vaccinated against these agents to avoid significant disease. The price of a vaccine for pet rabbits has gone up in recent years to provide protection from the two strains of calicivirus which are now present in wild populations, when previously just one was covered. As the government continues to release these strains into the wild population, vaccination is essential to protect your pet rabbit. This vaccine should be given yearly.

These days it’s pretty common to travel with our pets, but it you are looking at travelling a little further afield or making planning for a lap of Australia then there’s a few things to think about to ensure you furry companions stay in tiptop health.
Vaccinations:
You’ll need to ensure your pooch’s standard vaccines are up to date, so they don’t get parvo from the soil and are covered if you need to pop them into board while visiting national parks. These days more pet-friendly accommodation and caravan parks also require proof of vaccination for the stay. It’s worth having a chat with the vet team about where you are headed and the risks of a disease called leptospirosis. We can vaccinate again the most common strains, but depending on where you are going (mainly tropical Australia) and how long for, there’s an additional vaccine you may want to get topped up with a local vet in that region.

​Ticks:
Just like in the Blue Mountains, the rest of the East coast and northern part of Australia has paralysis ticks. Nexgard, Simparica and Bravecto all provide excellent coverage for this parasite but when it comes to the Brown Dog Tick, which can carry the blood borne parasite Ehrlichia, a Seresto collar works best. Both types of products can be used together to give top level coverage when you are travelling through northern Australia.
Heartworm:
Monthly heartworm prevention works well at protecting so long as they are given exactly on time. Because we are all prone to human error, failure to give a dose on time, even if only by a few days, in high risk areas (north/east Australia) could allow infection. Yearly heartworm injections give superior protection if you are spending an extended amount of time in that region.

​Oral toxins:
Cane toads are synonymous with Queensland but these days they can also be found in Northern NSW and the Northern Territory. If dogs are unfamiliar with these toxic hoppers, then they can get themselves into a pickle, especially if they enjoy the ‘buzz’ that a small dose of their poison gives. Many national parks and forest areas utilise baits to control wild dog and fox populations. Exploring pet dogs can come across baits if they have been dragged away from their intended location.
If you are spending a lot time in these regional areas it can be worth taking the time to train your dog to a basket muzzle so there’s no risk of accidental poisoning. 

Spirocerca:
This random little parasite is not very well know but hangs out in Northwest Qld – think Mount Isa and surrounds. It’s normal host is a dung beetle but it can cause pretty nasty ongoing illness in dogs that accidentally eat it. If you have a poop-eating pooch (of any variety of poo, especially cow dung), it’s worth looking at basket muzzles and regular worming with Milbemax or equivalent generic products.
Registration:
The final thing to do before hitting the road is to check that your pet’s microchip details are up to date, especially you’re on-the-road contact information. Because the NSW Pet Registry is not easily accessible by vets and council rangers outside of NSW, it’s worth making sure that you dog has a collar and/or tag with your phone number on it, plus it some states it’s a legal requirement.

​One of the many things we love about backyard chickens is the idea of reducing food waste and our little feathery powerhouses converting celery tops and cauliflower leaves into fresh eggs.

But how can we feed the flock kitchen scraps safely? The ratio of commercial feed: grain: greens is important.

Too high a proportion of delicious fatty grains, such as scratch mix, barley, corn, or oats can make chickens overweight, and deficient in protein, calcium, and good vitamins such as Vitamin A. This predisposes them to egg-laying difficulties including egg yolk coelomitis. And chickens will always choose grain if it's freely available.

Too much vegetable matter, and chickens will starve! Your kitchen scraps have good trace elements and vitamins but are low in energy.

Commercial foods such as layer pellets are tailored to meet the needs of today's high-output hen. General guidelines are about 120g per chicken per day.

In addition, a small scattering of scratch mix, which the chickens have to search the garden for, makes the perfect environmental enrichment.

Plus they can get added goodness from that bucket of vegetable kitchen scraps. 

Meat scraps should be left out, because of how quickly they go off - rotting food can result in paralysis from botulism - and because feeding livestock to other livestock is kinda how we ended up with mad cow disease.

And remember that some of our vegetable scraps are poisonous. Don't feed avocado pits or peel, onions, or raw potato to chooks. Too much parsley can sensitise them to the sun, so feed in moderation to avoid burnt chickens.

As for forage or weed piles from gardening, take care with long grass because it can cause crop impaction, as can polystyrene and cigarette butts. Castor beans, tobacco and nightshades are toxic. Pesticides, fertilisers, lead paint or wire offcuts are also to be avoided.

Don't forget the shell grit and the fresh water (allow 400mL/ chicken/ day) and you're all set to feed safe scraps to your chooks.

If you’ve ever tried to get your cat into its carrier only to have it vanish under the bed, you’re not alone. Nor are you alone if you then have your heart sink as they wail in distress as they are carrier and/or driving to the vet clinic or cattery.
But travel doesn’t have to be a battle. With the right preparation, training and mindset, most cats can learn to tolerate — and in some cases even cope well with — the journey from home to vet clinic or beyond.

Why Preparation Matters
Unlike us, cats don’t naturally enjoy motion or changes in environment. New sounds, smells, and the sensation of a moving car can all cause fear and anxiety. But many of these stressors can be minimised with some simple planning and desensitisation before the big day.

Choose the Right Carrier
A sturdy, well-ventilated carrier is the foundation of safe, low-stress travel. We particularly love ones that doors can be removed from and won’t collapse in on the cat, plus have a top opening or easy clips to pull apart, if a kitty doesn’t want to come out in the clinic. Ideally, it should be large enough for your cat to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably.
Once you have a carrier you’re happy with, it’s time to make it a positive place:

• Leave it out at home with the door open — don’t just bring it out on the morning of a vet visit.
• Give it a good clean if it’s been in storage in the carport or shed so there’s no bugs, cobwebs or direct, and place familiar bedding and maybe a favourite toy inside.
• Reward calm exploration with yummy treats and gentle praise.
• Short, positive visits into the carrier — even just stepping in and back out — are valuable.

All of this helps your cat associate the carrier with comfort and choice, not fear.

Carrier Training: The Steps
The process of training your cat to use its carrier is much the same as any other behaviour shaping:

1. Reward interest: mark with a click or calm word and reward when your cat looks at or approaches the carrier. For time-poor folk, this might be as simple as smearing some creamy treat just inside the carrier or placing some treats at the back of it.
2. Encourage entry: reward when your cat places paws inside and gradually stays longer.
3. Add the cue: use a simple verbal cue like “in your carrier” as they start to enter on their own.
4. Practice with the door closed: begin with the door lightly closed, building up to secure latching while your cat remains calm.

This step-by-step positive reinforcement helps your cat feel in control, protects your bond and reduces the stress that can build around vet visits.

Travelling and the Journey Itself
Once your cat will enter and stay in the carrier, it’s time to bridge the gap to actual travel.

• Secure placement: ensure the carrier is stable in the car — movement and swinging can heighten stress. Plus in an emergency it means that the carrier won’t go flying if you hit the brakes.
• Cover with a towel: a familiar blanket draped over the carrier can block out a lot of visual stimulation.
• Pheromones and familiar scents: sprays like Feliway or their favourite blanket help some cats feel safer.

If motion sickness or high anxiety remain an issue despite training, medications are available that can be very helpful in reducing anxiety during travel. Discuss this with us so we can tailor a plan for your cat.

After the Visit
Don’t let your cat bolt back inside and shut the door on the experience. Be calm and gentle when returning home — especially after longer stays — and allow your cat to reset in a safe, quiet space. This helps them feel secure again and prevents negative associations from building up. If it’s a multi-cat household this also allows the other cats to get the measure of any foreign scents that might have been picked up on the journey.
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Final Thoughts
Good travel experiences are built on small, consistent, positive moments. Carrier training isn’t just about the vet visit — it’s about giving your cat confidence and reducing fear in a situation they’ll probably face many times throughout life.
If you’re struggling despite your best efforts, or if your cat displays high levels of fear during travel, please talk to us. We’re here to help with behavioural strategies and recommendations that make travel easier for both of you.

With no Medicare for pets, planning for unexpected veterinary bills is important. Young animals can get themselves into mischief eating inappropriate objects or break limbs falling off beds/couches. Older animals have a greater likihood of developing serious illnesses like cancer. Whatever the age, chronic illness such as skin allergies or arthritis can add constant expense to your pets’ care.
Pet insurance is great safety net and we love when we don’t have to cut corners on health care for your 4-legged family members, in order to squeeze into a tight family budget but insurance companies main aim is to make a profit so when considering taking up a policy there's a few hazards to watch for.

Payment Method
If you have health insurance of your own, you’d be used to the hicaps system – so when you go to the dentist or physio you just pay the gap cost between the charges from the provider and what insurance covers. Traditionally though pet insurance have been a user pays model. So you need to pay the vet bill in full, then a few weeks later, once reviewing your claim, insurance would make a reimbursement to your bank account. The problem with this system is that you need to have enough cash/credit to be able to pay the bill to start off with. These days things have improved and there is a now a ‘gap only’ system that can integrate with most veterinary clinics, however there are still some insurers that require you to stump up the money first.

Excess amounts
The final area of difference between pet insurance and the other types of insurance that families would be familiar with (car, house) is in the structure of the excess. For most car insurance, there is a fixed cap amount you need to pay and then everything beyond that is covered by insurance. Pet insurance however on the most part works on a percentage excess. So while that mightn’t be a problem to pay 20% of a $200 visit for consultation and medication, when it’s a $3000 dollar visit to emergency, you’re still out of pocket $600! It’s worth looking at what the excess amounts mean for your family on a larger bill or consider options that might have a fixed excess amount.
​
Pre-exisiting Conditions
Taking out a policy on your pet after they have had health issues, is a bit like get car insurance after an accident. The insurers are not going to cover for anything that was documented as being a problem in all the time before the policy started. If you’ve mentioned problems to us and we’ve put it our clinical notes, they typically will exclude that body system and for high risk breeds (French Bulldogs and Dachshunds we’re looking at you!) that will sometimes have blanket exclusions on any problems they can argue the dog was born with and therefore you were aware of at the time of purchase. So it pays to take out insurance as soon as you get a puppy or kitten, before anything can go wrong, and read the fine print on their exclusions related to congenital conditions.

General exclusions
Although we are seeing more progressive insurers changing on this front, for the last 2+ decades pet insurance has excluded two whole body systems from cover. Namely, anything to do with teeth, because they claim it is preventable, although we see plenty of problems that owners can do nothing to avoid on that front (cat resorptive lesions and broken teeth in dogs to name a few), and behavioural (mental health) problems.

Injuries vs Illness
Another method that insurance companies use to ‘discount’ premiums is to offer injury only cover. While this might sound good, and it’s reassuring to know that if you pet was struck by a vehicle that they would be covered, there’s lots of shade of grey with claims. Is a puppy eating a sock an ‘injury’ or an ‘illness’? And often the most expensive care occurs with chronic illness such as heart disease or skin allergies, neither of which are covered by the basic policies.

Sub Limits
To make policies seem affordable, one tactic insurance companies take is to have sublimits. So while the policy might state that they will cover your pet for up to $30k worth of vet bills, buried in the policy documents will be a section stating that for select conditions - typically tick paralysis and cruciate ligament rupture (dogs) that they will  pay out $3k. Coincidentally (not!) the two most commonly claimed problems are…tick paralysis and cruciate ligament rupture. And treatment costs for ticks typically range between $2-10k and the standard recommended option for cruciate ligament repair is $5-6k. This leaves the pet owner substantially out of pocket, but saves the insurance companies a mint. It’s best to avoid policies with any sub limits.

Although we are not allowed to advise on insurance providers, considering these common traps can help you navigate deciding between the different options that are out there in the marketplace.