​ Are you feeling overwhelmed by all the different parasite prevention options available for your pet? Wondering which products to choose, what they protect against, and whether your pet is fully covered?
We’re here to help.
At our clinic, our priority is making sure your pets receive the correct protection, whether they’re big or small, indoor or outdoor, young or old. Parasite prevention is important all year round to help keep your pets healthy and protected.
Tick prevention is especially important in the Blue Mountains, as paralysis ticks can be extremely dangerous and even life threatening to pets. Many owners are surprised to learn that ticks can still affect indoor pets, as ticks can be brought inside on clothing, shoes, or other pets, or wildlife.
It is important to understand that not all preventative products cover everything. Some products may protect against fleas and ticks but not intestinal worms, while others may require an additional worming tablet for complete protection.
For example:

• Some tick preventatives require a separate intestinal wormer.
• Some products cover fleas and worms but not paralysis ticks.
• Some all-in-one products cover fleas, ticks, heartworm, and intestinal worms together.

Additional Parasite Protections: Some preventatives do not provide complete coverage against all intestinal worms and tapeworms.
To ensure complete protection, it is important to also include additional wormer treatments such as Fenpral, Milpro, and Droncit/allwormer

​To help ensure your pet receives complete parasite protection, please don’t hesitate to speak to our veterinary team to determine the most suitable prevention plan for your pet, as well as any questions or concerns you may have.

While there can be some debate as to what age to desex your dog or whether you should do it all, with cats the jury is clear – unless you are involved with breeding purebreds, all cats should be neutered and before they get a chance to reproduce.
At certain times of year all the pounds, rescues and shelters are crammed full of kittens born to semi-owned or feral cats so the responsible thing is to try and not add to them. What are semi-owned cats? It’s that cat you see in your neighbourhood on a regular basis that you put out food for. Too often these individuals are supported by a few household but no-one takes responsibility for the cat and before too long numbers can escalate.

So when should you do it?
The ISFM (International society for feline medicine) recommends desexing at 4 months of age, because a proportion of cats will enter sexual maturity from them. Conveniently we can match this up with the timing of their final kitten vaccination. While there are some exceptions to this recommendation, your vet can advise you of this when you bring your kitten in for their early health checks.

What are the pros and cons of desexing my cat?
While there is a small risk from the general anaesthetic and surgery, this is outweighed in the most part by the benefits. Beyond preventing pregnancy, it reduces the chances of the cat picking up infectious disease, especially those that can be transmitted by sexual contact such as feline AIDS. For the boys, there is a massive reduction in the chances of them spraying urine around the house and without castration their urine will develop a noticeable strong odour, even if confined to a litter tray. They are less likely to get involved in fights with other male cats and roam far distances. For the girls it can also reduce the risk of breast cancers in female cats if done before 6 months of age. Plus, if you’ve ever had the chance to see a female cat in heat, you won’t forget their loud and distinctive call that can keep you up at night, while they are yowling and throwing themselves at the window trying to attract a boyfriend!

What does desexing involve?
For both sexes, neutering involves a day surgery. They are dropped off with an empty tummy in the morning. The boys have a simple incision over each testes and the are removed, using their own vessels to tie in a knot to stop the bleeding. Recovery is usually quick and uneventful. For the girls there’s a bit more involved as they require abdominal surgery to remove their ovaries and uterus. They will have several layers of stitches that take a while to dissolve and require the challenge of keeping a kitten quiet for a week with limited running, jumping and zoomies!

Dogs

C3: A C3 vaccine is the minimum level of coverage and is often what is given by breeders to puppies before they go to their new home.  For adults we use a triennial (lasting 3 year) vaccination. A C3 vaccine gives coverage against:

• Canine Distemper Virus: A difficult to treat and often fatal disease which is becoming more prevalent in Australia, particularly in southern states. Distemper is most commonly spread through droplets from the nose or mouth of infected dogs.  Symptoms may include nasal discharge, fever, coughing, vomiting, diarrhoea, convulsions/seizures, jaw-chewing movements and paralysis in its later stages.
• Canine Parvovirus: This virus primarily attacks the gastrointestinal tract of dogs, with the most recognisable symptoms being bloody diarrhoea and vomiting. It is often fatal due to the rapid destruction it causes. Parvovirus is extremely contagious and can survive in the environment for up to 9 years following contamination with infected faecal material.
• Canine Infectious Hepatitis: This virus is shed in all secretions of infected dogs including urine, saliva and faeces. Symptoms may include nasal discharge, seizures, swelling or spontaneous bleeding. Canine hepatitis has the most significant impact on the liver and kidneys and can cause life-long damage or be fatal in some cases.

C5: A C5 vaccine offers more comprehensive coverage that a C3 and is recommended for most dogs. A C5 gives coverage against:

• Canine Distemper Virus
• Canine Parvovirus
• Canine Infectious Hepatitis
• Canine Parainfluenza & Bordetella bronchiseptia: Parainfluenza the viral component of canine kennel cough, while Bordetella bronchiseptia is the bacterial component. Symptoms can range from a mild, hacking cough through to fatal pneumonia in more severe cases. Canine cough is transmitted through airborne particles, and dogs may be exposed in any setting where there is a congregation of dogs including boarding facilities, off-leash parks, cafes or groomers. This vaccine needs to given yearly and is recommended for dogs who socialise.

C7: A C7 vaccine offers the highest level of coverage against the most common infectious diseases dogs may be exposed to. It may be recommended depending on your lifestyle or geographic location. A C7 gives coverage against:

• Canine Distemper Virus
• Canine Parvovirus
• Canine Infectious Hepatitis
• Canine Parainfluenza & Bordetella bronchiseptia
• Leptospirosis: There are a number of strains of Leptospira bacteria present in soil and water which can cause Leptospirosis in mammals, including dogs and humans. Symptoms vary, but the disease most commonly effects the liver and kidneys and is often fatal. Risk factors include exposure to rodents, travel to at-risk regions (such as the inner west of Sydney, the NSW South Coast and tropical northern Australia) and exposure to still water. The vaccine we use in clinic covers two strains of leptospira and has to be given yearly.

Cats
F3: A F3 vaccine is recommended for cats as it offers coverage against diseases which are most contagious and likely to causes serious health problems for pets.  It is a requirement for boarding and recommended for any cat that may have contact with others. It needs to be administered yearly  and gives coverage against:

• Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis: This highly contagious virus causes upper respiratory tract infections (cat flu). Symptoms include sneezing, eye and nasal discharge, a fever and coughing. Effective treatment is limited, and once a cat has become infected, it is a carrier for life.
• Feline Calicivirus: Another viral cause of upper respiratory tract infections (cat flu). Symptoms include fever, ulcers and blisters on the tongue and pneumonia in more severe cases.  Cats infected with calicivirus can suffer from chronic illness and infect other cats even after recovery.
• Feline Panleukopaenia: This virus causes gastrointestinal disease in cats, with symptoms including vomiting, diarrhoea, dehydration and fevers. It is extremely infectious and resistant and can last in contaminated environments for over 1 year.

 
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV): In some cases, particularly for outdoor cats, a vaccination against FIV may be recommended. FIV is transmitted through bite wounds and scratches from infected cats. The virus attacks the immune system, leading to compromised immunity for life in infected individuals. This needs to be administered yearly.

​Rabbits
Filavac: In Australia, biological agents such as strains of calicivirus are used for the control of wild rabbit populations. Pet rabbits should therefore be vaccinated against these agents to avoid significant disease. The price of a vaccine for pet rabbits has gone up in recent years to provide protection from the two strains of calicivirus which are now present in wild populations, when previously just one was covered. As the government continues to release these strains into the wild population, vaccination is essential to protect your pet rabbit. This vaccine should be given yearly.

These days it’s pretty common to travel with our pets, but it you are looking at travelling a little further afield or making planning for a lap of Australia then there’s a few things to think about to ensure you furry companions stay in tiptop health.
Vaccinations:
You’ll need to ensure your pooch’s standard vaccines are up to date, so they don’t get parvo from the soil and are covered if you need to pop them into board while visiting national parks. These days more pet-friendly accommodation and caravan parks also require proof of vaccination for the stay. It’s worth having a chat with the vet team about where you are headed and the risks of a disease called leptospirosis. We can vaccinate again the most common strains, but depending on where you are going (mainly tropical Australia) and how long for, there’s an additional vaccine you may want to get topped up with a local vet in that region.

​Ticks:
Just like in the Blue Mountains, the rest of the East coast and northern part of Australia has paralysis ticks. Nexgard, Simparica and Bravecto all provide excellent coverage for this parasite but when it comes to the Brown Dog Tick, which can carry the blood borne parasite Ehrlichia, a Seresto collar works best. Both types of products can be used together to give top level coverage when you are travelling through northern Australia.
Heartworm:
Monthly heartworm prevention works well at protecting so long as they are given exactly on time. Because we are all prone to human error, failure to give a dose on time, even if only by a few days, in high risk areas (north/east Australia) could allow infection. Yearly heartworm injections give superior protection if you are spending an extended amount of time in that region.

​Oral toxins:
Cane toads are synonymous with Queensland but these days they can also be found in Northern NSW and the Northern Territory. If dogs are unfamiliar with these toxic hoppers, then they can get themselves into a pickle, especially if they enjoy the ‘buzz’ that a small dose of their poison gives. Many national parks and forest areas utilise baits to control wild dog and fox populations. Exploring pet dogs can come across baits if they have been dragged away from their intended location.
If you are spending a lot time in these regional areas it can be worth taking the time to train your dog to a basket muzzle so there’s no risk of accidental poisoning. 

Spirocerca:
This random little parasite is not very well know but hangs out in Northwest Qld – think Mount Isa and surrounds. It’s normal host is a dung beetle but it can cause pretty nasty ongoing illness in dogs that accidentally eat it. If you have a poop-eating pooch (of any variety of poo, especially cow dung), it’s worth looking at basket muzzles and regular worming with Milbemax or equivalent generic products.
Registration:
The final thing to do before hitting the road is to check that your pet’s microchip details are up to date, especially you’re on-the-road contact information. Because the NSW Pet Registry is not easily accessible by vets and council rangers outside of NSW, it’s worth making sure that you dog has a collar and/or tag with your phone number on it, plus it some states it’s a legal requirement.

​One of the many things we love about backyard chickens is the idea of reducing food waste and our little feathery powerhouses converting celery tops and cauliflower leaves into fresh eggs.

But how can we feed the flock kitchen scraps safely? The ratio of commercial feed: grain: greens is important.

Too high a proportion of delicious fatty grains, such as scratch mix, barley, corn, or oats can make chickens overweight, and deficient in protein, calcium, and good vitamins such as Vitamin A. This predisposes them to egg-laying difficulties including egg yolk coelomitis. And chickens will always choose grain if it's freely available.

Too much vegetable matter, and chickens will starve! Your kitchen scraps have good trace elements and vitamins but are low in energy.

Commercial foods such as layer pellets are tailored to meet the needs of today's high-output hen. General guidelines are about 120g per chicken per day.

In addition, a small scattering of scratch mix, which the chickens have to search the garden for, makes the perfect environmental enrichment.

Plus they can get added goodness from that bucket of vegetable kitchen scraps. 

Meat scraps should be left out, because of how quickly they go off - rotting food can result in paralysis from botulism - and because feeding livestock to other livestock is kinda how we ended up with mad cow disease.

And remember that some of our vegetable scraps are poisonous. Don't feed avocado pits or peel, onions, or raw potato to chooks. Too much parsley can sensitise them to the sun, so feed in moderation to avoid burnt chickens.

As for forage or weed piles from gardening, take care with long grass because it can cause crop impaction, as can polystyrene and cigarette butts. Castor beans, tobacco and nightshades are toxic. Pesticides, fertilisers, lead paint or wire offcuts are also to be avoided.

Don't forget the shell grit and the fresh water (allow 400mL/ chicken/ day) and you're all set to feed safe scraps to your chooks.

If you’ve ever tried to get your cat into its carrier only to have it vanish under the bed, you’re not alone. Nor are you alone if you then have your heart sink as they wail in distress as they are carrier and/or driving to the vet clinic or cattery.
But travel doesn’t have to be a battle. With the right preparation, training and mindset, most cats can learn to tolerate — and in some cases even cope well with — the journey from home to vet clinic or beyond.

Why Preparation Matters
Unlike us, cats don’t naturally enjoy motion or changes in environment. New sounds, smells, and the sensation of a moving car can all cause fear and anxiety. But many of these stressors can be minimised with some simple planning and desensitisation before the big day.

Choose the Right Carrier
A sturdy, well-ventilated carrier is the foundation of safe, low-stress travel. We particularly love ones that doors can be removed from and won’t collapse in on the cat, plus have a top opening or easy clips to pull apart, if a kitty doesn’t want to come out in the clinic. Ideally, it should be large enough for your cat to stand up, turn around and lie down comfortably.
Once you have a carrier you’re happy with, it’s time to make it a positive place:

• Leave it out at home with the door open — don’t just bring it out on the morning of a vet visit.
• Give it a good clean if it’s been in storage in the carport or shed so there’s no bugs, cobwebs or direct, and place familiar bedding and maybe a favourite toy inside.
• Reward calm exploration with yummy treats and gentle praise.
• Short, positive visits into the carrier — even just stepping in and back out — are valuable.

All of this helps your cat associate the carrier with comfort and choice, not fear.

Carrier Training: The Steps
The process of training your cat to use its carrier is much the same as any other behaviour shaping:

1. Reward interest: mark with a click or calm word and reward when your cat looks at or approaches the carrier. For time-poor folk, this might be as simple as smearing some creamy treat just inside the carrier or placing some treats at the back of it.
2. Encourage entry: reward when your cat places paws inside and gradually stays longer.
3. Add the cue: use a simple verbal cue like “in your carrier” as they start to enter on their own.
4. Practice with the door closed: begin with the door lightly closed, building up to secure latching while your cat remains calm.

This step-by-step positive reinforcement helps your cat feel in control, protects your bond and reduces the stress that can build around vet visits.

Travelling and the Journey Itself
Once your cat will enter and stay in the carrier, it’s time to bridge the gap to actual travel.

• Secure placement: ensure the carrier is stable in the car — movement and swinging can heighten stress. Plus in an emergency it means that the carrier won’t go flying if you hit the brakes.
• Cover with a towel: a familiar blanket draped over the carrier can block out a lot of visual stimulation.
• Pheromones and familiar scents: sprays like Feliway or their favourite blanket help some cats feel safer.

If motion sickness or high anxiety remain an issue despite training, medications are available that can be very helpful in reducing anxiety during travel. Discuss this with us so we can tailor a plan for your cat.

After the Visit
Don’t let your cat bolt back inside and shut the door on the experience. Be calm and gentle when returning home — especially after longer stays — and allow your cat to reset in a safe, quiet space. This helps them feel secure again and prevents negative associations from building up. If it’s a multi-cat household this also allows the other cats to get the measure of any foreign scents that might have been picked up on the journey.
​
Final Thoughts
Good travel experiences are built on small, consistent, positive moments. Carrier training isn’t just about the vet visit — it’s about giving your cat confidence and reducing fear in a situation they’ll probably face many times throughout life.
If you’re struggling despite your best efforts, or if your cat displays high levels of fear during travel, please talk to us. We’re here to help with behavioural strategies and recommendations that make travel easier for both of you.

With no Medicare for pets, planning for unexpected veterinary bills is important. Young animals can get themselves into mischief eating inappropriate objects or break limbs falling off beds/couches. Older animals have a greater likihood of developing serious illnesses like cancer. Whatever the age, chronic illness such as skin allergies or arthritis can add constant expense to your pets’ care.
Pet insurance is great safety net and we love when we don’t have to cut corners on health care for your 4-legged family members, in order to squeeze into a tight family budget but insurance companies main aim is to make a profit so when considering taking up a policy there's a few hazards to watch for.

Payment Method
If you have health insurance of your own, you’d be used to the hicaps system – so when you go to the dentist or physio you just pay the gap cost between the charges from the provider and what insurance covers. Traditionally though pet insurance have been a user pays model. So you need to pay the vet bill in full, then a few weeks later, once reviewing your claim, insurance would make a reimbursement to your bank account. The problem with this system is that you need to have enough cash/credit to be able to pay the bill to start off with. These days things have improved and there is a now a ‘gap only’ system that can integrate with most veterinary clinics, however there are still some insurers that require you to stump up the money first.

Excess amounts
The final area of difference between pet insurance and the other types of insurance that families would be familiar with (car, house) is in the structure of the excess. For most car insurance, there is a fixed cap amount you need to pay and then everything beyond that is covered by insurance. Pet insurance however on the most part works on a percentage excess. So while that mightn’t be a problem to pay 20% of a $200 visit for consultation and medication, when it’s a $3000 dollar visit to emergency, you’re still out of pocket $600! It’s worth looking at what the excess amounts mean for your family on a larger bill or consider options that might have a fixed excess amount.
​
Pre-exisiting Conditions
Taking out a policy on your pet after they have had health issues, is a bit like get car insurance after an accident. The insurers are not going to cover for anything that was documented as being a problem in all the time before the policy started. If you’ve mentioned problems to us and we’ve put it our clinical notes, they typically will exclude that body system and for high risk breeds (French Bulldogs and Dachshunds we’re looking at you!) that will sometimes have blanket exclusions on any problems they can argue the dog was born with and therefore you were aware of at the time of purchase. So it pays to take out insurance as soon as you get a puppy or kitten, before anything can go wrong, and read the fine print on their exclusions related to congenital conditions.

General exclusions
Although we are seeing more progressive insurers changing on this front, for the last 2+ decades pet insurance has excluded two whole body systems from cover. Namely, anything to do with teeth, because they claim it is preventable, although we see plenty of problems that owners can do nothing to avoid on that front (cat resorptive lesions and broken teeth in dogs to name a few), and behavioural (mental health) problems.

Injuries vs Illness
Another method that insurance companies use to ‘discount’ premiums is to offer injury only cover. While this might sound good, and it’s reassuring to know that if you pet was struck by a vehicle that they would be covered, there’s lots of shade of grey with claims. Is a puppy eating a sock an ‘injury’ or an ‘illness’? And often the most expensive care occurs with chronic illness such as heart disease or skin allergies, neither of which are covered by the basic policies.

Sub Limits
To make policies seem affordable, one tactic insurance companies take is to have sublimits. So while the policy might state that they will cover your pet for up to $30k worth of vet bills, buried in the policy documents will be a section stating that for select conditions - typically tick paralysis and cruciate ligament rupture (dogs) that they will  pay out $3k. Coincidentally (not!) the two most commonly claimed problems are…tick paralysis and cruciate ligament rupture. And treatment costs for ticks typically range between $2-10k and the standard recommended option for cruciate ligament repair is $5-6k. This leaves the pet owner substantially out of pocket, but saves the insurance companies a mint. It’s best to avoid policies with any sub limits.

Although we are not allowed to advise on insurance providers, considering these common traps can help you navigate deciding between the different options that are out there in the marketplace.

These days the usefulness of microchips for our cats and dogs is taken for granted but the way the microchip system operates within Australia leaves a lot to be desired and can be a great source of confusion and contention.

The Basics:
A microchip is in essence only a scannable number. It gives the reader a 15 digit number (or if it is a fancy microchip, it may also transmit the pet’s temperature). But that number is useless without a relevant database. Think about it like a number plate for your car. For most of us when we look at the number plate, the only thing we can tell is that specific combination of letters and numbers. But its value is when those details are put into a database such as the NSW Vehicle Registry which allows access to information such as the registered owner, car make, model & colour. Similarly the NSW Pet Registry given information on the species, breed, colour & age of the pet, as well as the owners name, contact details & address.

Which Registry:
You would think like vehicle registration, that if you have your pet’s details recorded on the NSW system, that it would mean if you pet ends up interstate that their details would still be accessible by pounds, etc but that is not the case. In Australia there is at least 5 different registries. Different states require animal residing within its boundaries to have their details lodged with various providers. None of the registries communication with each other and many are privately owned – and as happened recently, this leaves them vulnerable to bankruptcy and the pets details being wiped completely or sold off. What does this mean for you? Well if you live in NSW, you pet needs to be on the NSW government registry, irrespective of whether they are also on another interstate registry. And if you acquire a puppy or kitten interstate you’ll have to complete the relevant change of ownership forms for both the state they are leaving as well as ensuring they have the specific microchip paperwork for NSW completed.

Registration vs Being on the Registry
Having your pet’s details on a microchip registry is NOT the same thing as them being registered with council, nor kennel club registration. Confusingly the same word is used but it means different things. Being on the pet registry just means that your pets microchip number has been placed on the system with an owners’ contact details. When the lifetime registration fee has been paid to council or via the Service NSW portal, then the pet is considered registered in NSW. The one-off lifetime NSW registration fees are the main source of income used by the councils to fund the work of the council rangers in collecting strays, caring for and rehoming unowned dogs and cats.
Pedigree dogs can also be registered with Dogs NSW, but that is only relevant for purebred dog owners who are wishing to confirm their dog’s lineage for show-ring or breeding purposes.

What’s The Rules?
The microchipping laws are laid down by the state government but in a complicated system of bureaucracy, local councils have to administer the rules. This is why at times rules may change but the people in the local council office are unclear on what is supposed to be happening. As of 2024, registration fees are due “when a pet changes ownership or at 12 weeks of age, whichever is first”. This means as soon as you adopt a puppy or kitten it is your responsibility to organise payment of the registration fees. You do NOT wait until they are old enough for desexing (if that is something you are planning on). Fees around entire vs desexed animals do not apply until they have reached breeding age.
Transfer of ownership is another point of confusion. Traditionally this was done with a form in triplicate (i.e. 3 copies) that the breeder and new owner each kept a copy of and the third copy had to be physically taken to a council office for submission. Now there is also the option for electronic change of ownership via the Pet Registry Portal. If it has been years and for whatever reason your pet isn’t in your name, then the best option is to complete a statutory declaration form and submit that council to request the pet is transfer into your name.
​
 
The microchip system is confusing and often convoluted, but can be a life-saving in identifying pets and getting them back to their owners. It’s worth spending a bit of time checking that all of your pets details in order, because it is heart-breaking when families lose a beloved pet and are unable to track them. If you’re getting confused about it, you are welcome to reach out to us, we are more that happy to help people navigate the system.

Paralysis ticks are well known as a deadly summer parasite in the Blue Mountains, but did you know that they can impact your pet even in the cooler months? While adult ticks are typically most active from September to January, warmer, wetter winters mean that we are now seeing tick paralysis cases in clinic as early as July. Additionally, the warmer weather means that suburbs like Hazelbrook and Wentworth Falls, which previously did not see tick paralysis, are more habitable for ticks. With this in mind, what do pet owners need to know about ticks, how to spot them, and how to help your pet avoid them as tick season intensifies.
​
The paralysis tick life cycle
​

​The lifecycle of the paralysis tick takes around a year to complete and requires 2-3 mammalian hosts in this time. Native animals common to the Blue Mountains, like bandicoots and possums, are natural hosts and will often carry a large number of ticks with little to no impact on their health. Larval stage ticks (most seen in Autumn) may bite and cause some skin irritation to pets and owners. Nymphs (most seen in Winter and early Spring) can cause illness in pets, particularly if present in large numbers. Adult ticks are the most dangerous, with even a single adult tick being able to cause severe illness or death in household pets.
 
How do ticks cause paralysis, and what are the early signs to look out for?
Ticks feed on blood and are reliant on mammalian hosts to complete their lifecycle. While feeding, ticks inject neurotoxins which can lead to eventual paralysis and death of pets. During warmer months, pets should be checked daily for ticks, particularly if you or your pet has been in the bush, long grass/shrubbery or the beach. Even indoor pets can be exposed to ticks, often if they are brought inside on owners, or if the tick has crawled inside.
Early signs to look out for include vomiting, lethargy, weakness in the back legs, a change to vocalisation and inappetence.
 
What should I do if I find a tick on my pet?
First, remove the tick. Ensure you have removed the whole tick including mouth parts, not just the body. A tool like a Tick Twister can be helpful to do this, but fingers or tweezers work too! Run your fingers through your pet’s coat to feel for ticks. Often if one tick is found, more will be present. If you notice any changes in your pet’s behaviour, or are unsure you have fully removed the tick, give us a call. Sometimes, symptoms will still be observed even after a tick has been removed, as some toxin may already be in your pet’s system.
 
How to protect your pet from ticks
Ideally, year-round tick prevention should be given. For dogs, Bravecto Quantum is an annual injection which prevents ticks and eliminates the need to remember to give preventatives every few months! Alternatively, monthly and three-monthly chews from brands including Bravecto, Nexgard Spectra and Simparica Trio or six-monthly top spot treatments from Bravecto can also be used. For cats, Felpreva and Bravecto top spot treatments can be used for three-monthly protection from ticks. Staying up to date with preventatives is the best way to avoid tick paralysis for your pets, and is important year-round, not just in the summertime!